The cafés around the Grande-Place and place Rihour are always buzzing with life. Rue de Paris has lots of tacky, loud, crushed bars raging at all hours, while rue Basse and nearby place Louise-de-Bettignies have some trendier spots.
Bars are thick on the ground in rues Solférino and Masséna, and attract a young crowd. Art and music events are always worth checking up on - there's a particularly lively jazz scene. Pick up a copy of the free weekly listings magazine , Sortir , from the tourist office, or look in the local paper, La Voix du Nord .